Read the text carefully in front of the class.The Batak "Ulos" Hand-woven Textile
For the Batak ethnic group of Lake Toba in North Sumatra, - as indeed with other communities
in Indonesia, - their meticulously hand-woven textiles, known as "Ulos" are not merely made to wear
as clothing, but are significant symbols of status, serve as precious heirlooms, or are ceremonial
gifts during rites in human's life cycle from births and wedding to deaths.
Traditionally, weaving was the task of women only, and men were
prohibited from work, since it is believed that while weaving, woman
imbue the cloth with symbolic values connected with women's role in
caring for family, children and the community. Whilst men's duty is the
protection of family and village. Therefore weaving can be done only
during leisure time while women tend to home. It is small wonder, then
that one cloth may take months to complete.
Batak textiles use mostly cotton yarn, while colors are produced by immersing the yarn in plant
dye. The blue color comes from the indigo plant, red is made from sappan wood and morinda which
grow abundantly in the tropics. Yellow comes from turmeric, whereas black is produced by mixing
morinda with indigo, and green is a mix of indigo and turmeric,
Textiles are woven on back-strap or body tension looms, where tension is created by the weight
of the seated weaver who leans against the back strap. That is the reason why this type of hand-
woven cloths can only be made as wide as the arms' span of the weaver. With modernization, the
ATBM (Alat Tenun Bukan Mesin) or the non-mechanized upright loom was introduced. Cotton yarn
is now also bought rather than made personally, and more synthetic colorings are used, purchased
in stores to make the cheaper versions for use in modern designer dresses or for sale to tourists.
17​